Wiring Your Building

View Typical Network Layout

Who Should Read This Page
Anyone planning to wire a building for a 100-Base-T ethernet network, as would be used for a Windows-based network of PCs. Please note that no aspect of this document is specific to a GenesisFour system. The information provided in this document consists of conventional network cabling principles and practices.

For your convenience, approximate prices have been included so you can have an idea what to expect when you are purchasing interconnect.

Server Location Considerations
The server should be located near a telephone (for support purposes), and near your modem line jack as well. Another consideration is that you might want to place the server in a quiet room, in case you need to call for support and are instructed to work from your server. Backups are performed at the server, so consider the issue that you should have a safe storage area for backup media. Finally, while a Windows 2000 or  NT server can be used as a workstation to operate the GenesisFour software, it should not be used by a "power user" to run high overhead programs like desktop publishing, or to get to the Internet. If you crash the server, you take down the entire system. G4 recommends that power users have their own, reasonably powerful workstation. This does not by any means suggest that someone without need or understanding of the computer should have the server on their desk. This is, after all, the key to you entire network. You don't want you system coming down just because the operator didn't know how to use Windows.

Network Layout Conceptual Summary
This section describes a 10-BaseT/100-BaseT Ethernet network. There are many other network configurations (Token-ring, 10-Base2, etc.) but we will stick with the more common, BaseT networks.

The entire network starts with the Network Hub. The Network Hub has one simple, but very important, function; they connect each Node (more on this in a bit) of the network to each other.

A Node is the term used to describe a device on the network and its connection to the Hub. Each Node consists of a device (Printer, PC, Scanner, etc.) with a NIC (Network Interface Card) connected by a network cable that runs to the Network Hub. Each Hub has several ports for connecting Nodes.

• All the PCs to be connected to the network must be equipped with a NIC.

• Printers are connected one of two ways. either to the PCs (more common), or to the hub if they are "network printers" (more expensive, less common).

• Bar code readers and cash drawers connect directly to PCs. In both cases special cables are required (consult with GenesisFour).

What about the server? Well, as far as the network is concerned, the server is just another PC node on the network. Think of your Network Hub as the Government, whatever you do for a living, you as still just another tax payer.

Two Methods Of Wiring Your Network

Method 1 (Simple, Inexpensive, Fast)
This method involves the use of pre-terminated CAT 5 cables (see materials section below) for the full length of the cable run from the network hub to the ethernet device (PC or network printer). This method is easier since it makes the entire installation virtually a plug and play process. However, fishing cables with pre-terminated ends can be difficult. Generally, once a network has been fully wired using this method, more of your network cabling is visible to the eye.

G4 stocks pre-terminated CAT 5 cables in 10' increments from 10 to 110', and custom cables can be generally made and shipped within 24 hours in any color in the rainbow. Most smaller systems (3-5 workstations) wind up getting wired in this manner.

This method is so simple in install that, in all likelihood no further instruction is needed. If you plan to use Method 1, you probably do not need to read any more of this document other than the discussion of CAT 5 Cables in the "Materials Needed" section below. Simply read that, measure your cable run lengths and order your patch cables.

Method 2 (More Involved, More Expensive, Nicer Finished Appearance)
This method involves the use of patch cables, patch panels (optional, see below) raw CAT 5 cable generally purchased by the spool, surface or flush mount wall jacks, and relatively short (10') cables to connect the hub to the wall jacks (at one end of the long run made by the raw cabling), and from the wall jacks to the PCs (at the other end of the long run made by the raw cabling). Optionally, a patch panel may be used in lieu of the wall jacks at the hub end of the long run.

The remainder of this document is dedicated to the implementation of Method 2.

Materials Needed

Required

Category 5 Twisted-Pair Network Cable (4-pair/8 conductor) - Shielded or unshielded, depending on local building code requirements. Please check with local authorities for any specific regulations that may dictate what you may or may not use. This cable is commonly available at computer supply houses. Typical spool sizes are 500' (~$99) and 1000' (~$149).

Surface or Flush Mount Wall Jacks (4-pair) – You may select surface or flush mount wall jacks. Surface mount wall jacks are easier to install and far more commonly used with existing construction. Additionally, wall jacks are available with either a single or dual jack (capable of operating either one or two ethernet devices.) You'll need 2 complete wall jack assemblies for each cable drop that runs from your network hub to each workstation (one at each end). If your printers will be connected directly to your PCs, you do not need an ethernet cable run for them. However, you will need to provide an ethernet cable run for printers that have an ethernet port ("NETWORK PRINTER").

Typical price for category 5 dual wall jacks ~$20 (CAT 5 may not be necessary)

Typical price for category 3 dual wall jacks  ~$10

Typical Hand Tools – You are a repair shop... you have whatever you need.

CAT 5 Cables These cables are readily available in various lengths, and are generally purchased pre-terminated and ready to plug in to both the server's NIC and to a port on the network hub. G4 uses brightly colored cables to designate the cable lengths (red are 10', orange are 20', and so forth). You will probably need several cables. The total number of cables required depends on the number of ethernet devices, and whether or not you are using Building Wiring Method 1 or 2, as explained above.

Optional

Patch Panel – A patch can be used instead of wall jacks near hub. A patch panel allows you to bring all building wiring coming back from the workstations towards the hub into a single connection panel, rather than to numerous wall jacks. This makes for a cleaner installation, and may be easier to work with in the future if and when you add more ethernet devices… but is by no means necessary. Patch panels are commonly used on larger networks (i.e., where 8-10 wall jacks would be needed at hub end of building wiring. As a point of reference, GenesisFour offers a 12-port patch panel ($149).

110 Punch down Tool – This tool makes the process of punching down the individual CAT 5 twisted pair conductors into the wall jacks significantly easier than if you don't have it… but you can manage without it by simply using your fingertip. Please note, however, that if you do decide to go with the patch panel, you will be much happier working with the punch down tool.

Method 2 Building Wiring Instructions

Step 1: Decide on your system layout. Draw a block diagram with all system components labeled and cable runs shown. (see Server Location Considerations section above).

Step 2: Determine routing for all cable runs, mark wall locations for the wall jacks, and then wire the twisted-pair cable throughout the building as needed.

Note:  as mentioned earlier, wall jacks frequently have provision for dual connections, meaning that each can serve two devices, (PC workstations, network printers with ethernet ports). In order to take advantage of this, you must run two individual cable runs for each pair of wall jacks. If you have purchased dual wall jacks, G4 recommends that you do this even if your diagram only calls for the use of one device per cable run. This is because you may decide to add an additional device later, or, alternatively, you may find one of your runs was damaged while the wire was being pulled through a wall, and simply does not work.

Step 3: (Applies to surface mount wall jacks only. For flush mount wall jacks, follow instructions provided by the manufacturer or vendor) Disassemble one wall jack by unscrewing the single Phillips screw on the top cover. Study it carefully in order to take note of the following:

• the two connector blocks inside (one for each device to be connected)

• the two sets of numbers 1 through 8 molded into the plastic base of the jack. Each set of numbers corresponds to one connector block, and each individual number corresponds directly to an individual connection point on its respective connector block.

• the cable hole in the back of the base of the jack. Make sure you route all wiring through this hole before you start making connections or you will have to start all over again.

• the hardware kit, which includes 4 push-on terminators, for locking wire in place

Each connector block uses two terminators. Each terminator handles 4 wires. Therefore, each jack uses all four terminators if fully wired two serve two devices. Practice installing one terminator by pressing one into place, and then pull it back off again. Note that one edge of each terminator always aligns perfectly with one edge of the connector block.

Step 4: Pick the first cable run to be terminated. Strip outer insulation approximately 1.5" and feed the wire through the hole in the back of the base of the jack. It is not necessary to strip the individual wires.

Step 5: Take note of the "matched-pair" color scheme used with this type of wire: for each white wire with a colored stripe, there is a matching colored wire with a white stripe (or, depending on the wire manufacturer, there may be a matching SOLID colored wire instead.). The number-to-color scheme shown below follows industry convention, and should be used throughout your building. No mistakes, please!

Step 6: Following the number-to-color scheme above, lay each individual wire across the correct slot on the top of the connector block (from inside to outside edge of the connector block). Do not allow the end of the wire to protrude more than 1/8" beyond the edge of the connector block. If too much wire protrudes, the terminator will not press down at all. If you have a 110 punch down tool, use it to press the wire into the slot. If you do not have a punch down tool, place your thumb tips on the wire to either side of the slot and press the wire down into the slot until you feel confident that it will stay in place while you work on the next wire.

Step 7: Once you have laid 4 wires in place, take one plastic terminator, align it properly, and press it into place. You should feel an acknowledging sensation as the terminator pushes its 4 wires all the way down, locks into place, and bottoms out on the connector block. (If you are using a punch-down tool, the wires should already be pushed all the way down). Afterwards, give a gentle tug on the wire to make sure the connections are solid. Then repeat the process for the remaining wires to be connected inside this wall jack.

Step 8: Reinstall cover, but do not mount the wall jack. Save this for after the system is in place and all devices are operational. Wiring errors inside wall jacks are easier to troubleshoot and correct if the wall jack is no mounted.

Step 9: Repeat Steps 4-8 for all remaining wall jacks. If you are using a patch panel, install it on the wall near the server. Punch all cables into the patch panel in the same manner as you have done with the wall jacks. Your patch panel probably does not have plastic terminators like the wall jacks do. Simply punch the cables into the proper slots in the proper order. Again... no mistakes, please. Remember dual cable runs are worth the small amount of extra effort required. If you do this, you'll be glad you did later on.

Step 10: Cold beer & hot pizza. Now.

Congratulations. You are ready to connect your devices.